Saturday, 6 July 2019

Pike and Eel to St Neots

Thu 4th July  Pike and Eel to Hemingford Grey

The mooring by the Pike and Eel

Clear water on the Great Ouse

We had a problem with mosquitos at this mooring. The short path through the woods to the marina had clouds of the things went we walked through last night, and there were several in the boat. Hazel had a few bites. She is always more tasty than James, except for horseflies who prefer James to Hazel. We will try somewhere a bit more open next.

It was a lovely day as we cruised upriver past the Old Ferryboat Inn and some old thatched cottages at Holywell. We passed under the Guided Bus Bridge, which we intend to use later on to get to Cambridge and Fen Drayton reserve.

Thatched Houses in Holywell

Our wake

Guided Bus Bridge

We arrived at St Ives Lock which was unevenly shaped. It had a guillotine gate at the lower end, and there were hard hat men working on the electrics. Hazel went forward to operate the paddles on the upper V-gates on the starboard side, which would have kept us against the straight wall. However, a “helpful” hard hat man put up the paddle fully on the port side without asking and swept the boat into the wall opposite with a loud bang. He obviously had little boating experience. He laughed. James was cross.

St Ives Lock

The hard hat man on the left

We left the lock and cruised to St Ives. The 15th century bridge there has many arches to take it across the flood plain, and a chapel halfway across the river.

Many arches at St Ives

The historic bridge over the river

We headed for a mooring at “The Waits” which is through the bridge, and on the same side as the town. We discovered that wall is too high for narrowboats, so had to put out fenders on the cabin sides instead of on the hull. We had to climb up onto the lockers and step over the side to get ashore.

High wall at the Waits mooring

We found a Waitrose at the far end of the town and bought a few items. We also found a new Wetherspoons called the Swan and Angel, opened in April 2017.  It was very hot, so we called in for a cool drink. Old Rosie and Thatcher’s Cloudy ciders.

Cromwell statue, St Ives

Back on the boat we had zzzzz.  We used the water tap as it was there before moving on later when it was cooler. Our map marked the channel by the Waits as a through route inside Holt Island. However, beyond the moorings it was weedy, with low trees. There was a sign marked “turning point” but at 59ft we were too long, so we had to reverse out. Sadly, our bow thruster is not working at present, as it would have been very useful for this manoeuvre.

Topping up with water

The entrance to the Waits

We cruised up to Hemingford Lock, where we found three cruisers coming out towards us. After the lock there was a delightful stretch through to Hemingford Grey. This sounds and looks like the setting for a Miss Marple mystery, with thatched cottages, a huge vicarage, a manor house and a church. We saw some rowing boats being prepared.

The church at Hemingford Grey

Thatched cottage

The EA mooring was too high, like the one at St Ives, so we moved on to the GOBA mooring which was OK. Later there were noisy lads further up on the other side playing loud music and having to shout to each other above the noise. Thankfully they disappeared by 6pm, probably because they were expected home for dinner.  The rowing boats appeared, going up and down with different crews each time. Presumably it was a rowing club as most of them looked fairly good at it. On the top of the bank there were lots of people walking their dogs, and some were shouting at their dogs, so it wasn’t all that peaceful until darkness fell.  

The GOBA mooring at Hemingford Grey.

Sunset

2 locks, 7 miles. Dep 0930, arr 1005 St Ives. Dep 1625 arr 1730 Hemingford Grey


Fri 5th July  Hemingford Grey to St Neots

Moored at Hemingford Grey

We slept late this morning - 0945! It was very warm by the time we set off, so we put up the hood for shade.  We were hoping for a picture of Houghton Mill, but we could not see through the trees on the island. We passed Hartford with its riverside church.

The church at Hartford

We continued up stream through Huntingdon and Godmanchester. We had hoped to stop somewhere between Brampton and Offord Cluny, but the GOBA mooring at Brampton had several boats already, and the remaining stretch was surrounded by cows, so we continued.

This couple started a sponsored sunbathe in 1961



There is an island just before Brampton Lock, and there were some confusing signs.  One sign said “upstream boats should turn right across the pool to the lock”. Another sign said “Navigation Channel” with an arrow to the left, next to a two-way traffic sign. We chose the latter, as we remembered crossing the weir pool last time and being told we shouldn’t have done. In the words of Pete and Dud: “It could confuse a stupid person”. We’ll try to get photos of the signs on the way back.

In hindsight we should have stopped at the GOBA mooring a mile or so further on, where there was space, but we thought there were too many trees and therefore mosquitos might be a problem again. Hazel has several bites from our time at the Pike and Eel.

We passed under a new dual carriageway bridge which will be the A14 Southern Bypass for Huntingdon.

A14 Southern Bypass bridge under construction

We had two moorings marked on our map at Offord Lock – one GOBA and the other EA. We couldn’t find either, so we carried on through Offord Lock. Here we found a grey wagtail nest with baby birds in one of the cavities where chains are fixed in the lock wall.

Offord Lock

Grey Wagtail

Grey wagtail chicks

Our next mooring hope was at Paxton Pits, two miles further on, but there is only enough space for two boats, and there were already two boats there. We were suffering from weed on the prop since leaving Offord Lock, so we had a laborious upstream cruise to the lock at St Neots. The bottom gates were open, so went straight in, and James climbed the ladder. A cruiser came in behind us.  This lock had a guillotine gate at the lower end, and V gates at the upstream end.

St Neots Lock

As we left the lock, we tied to the bollards to make a visit to the weed hatch to clear the weed. By this time, we were very tired, and were pleased to see empty moorings on the Lammas Meadow. However, when we tried to moor it was very shallow and weedy and we could not get in close enough to get off onto the bank. We continued to the moorings on the park in St Neots, where we had intended to arrive tomorrow night. Thankfully there was space, and deep water, so we moored up gratefully.

St Neots mooring

Later there was a group of people having a BBQ on the riverbank nearby, and a disco going on in the Priory Centre opposite, but it was all quiet by midnight.

Dusk at St Neots

5 locks, 14 miles. Dep 1135, arr 1710.

Sat 6th July  St Neots

There were people setting up barriers and inflatable arches on the park this morning. It was apparent that there was to be a triathlon tomorrow. We had exactly the same situation when we were here in August 2011.

A flock of twenty canoes appeared for a while, and then there were dragon boats going up and down, beating out a rhythm with a loud drum.

Having done a two-day journey yesterday, we felt we could relax a bit today. We wandered across the bridge into town and picked up our pre-arranged prescriptions from Boots. We found a hairdresser for Hazel and booked an appointment for 1115. We had a coffee together before James wandered back to the boat while Hazel went for her appointment, where she had a good conversation about spiritual matters with the hairdresser.

Hazel arrived back just before some rain arrived, and we had a relaxing afternoon watching Wimbledon tennis.

If we had stopped earlier yesterday, we would have arrived here just in time for a wet afternoon, and Hazel wouldn’t have had her hair appointment.

No boating today.

Next: A visit to the Open Door Church tomorrow, who meet in the Priory Centre opposite, then further upstream to Bedford.

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