Voyages of Gabriel: Reading to Wallingford

Wed 4^th August Reading to Pangbourne

We went out for breakfast to Richfields Deli and Grill, where the menu has some different things such as spicy eggs benny with bacon. It set us up for the day.

Breakfast

We just missed John and Barbara as they had gone to work before we could say farewell. We left Reading and continued our journey upstream. At one point we were faced with canoes across the river. We also spotted the letterbox that we have seen in other years on Sonning Bridge. This time it was on the high retaining wall that supports the railway at Tilehurst.

Canoes

A handy post box

Mapledurham House

Mapledurham weir and lock

Mapledurham Lock

Swan in flight

We moored on Pangbourne meadow, behind Kings Shilling. He kindly moved up for us. Having done the research yesterday, we were able to say that we knew his boat was a 1947 Broome!

Moored on Pangbourne Meadow

We had our weekly Canal Ministries Zoom meeting in the evening.

1 lock, 6 miles. Dep 0955, arr 1145

Thu 5^th August Pangbourne to Goring

A few boats left early, including Kings Shilling. When we departed, we had Whitchurch Lock to ourselves, on self-service, with Hazel in charge.

Hazel at the controls at Whitchurch Lock

The Swan at Pangbourne (featured in the book Three Men in a Boat)

We were keen to establish what was happening at Beale Park, as we had heard that “Free Mooring” had changed to “No Mooring”, and then to “Mooring Fee”. It seems that there are still some free moorings, but the central area, near the wildlife park, has moorings at £10 per night, redeemable against the cost of entry to the park.

An unusual craft near Beale Park

We spotted another historic boat Anamac, which is thought to have been used in the Dunkirk evacuation. She was built in 1937 in Michigan, and you can read her history here. Name Anamac | National Historic Ships

Anamac

Looking back at Hatton Hill

Gatehampton Railway Bridge

We spotted Tamora, belonging to Ian and Maureen (ACS), moored near Progress, a well-known sea-going narrowboat, owned by Chris Coburn.

Tamora and Progress

As we approached Goring, a large hired cruiser overtook us, and then pulled in towards the last available mooring. As we passed them, they decided to pull out again, so we reversed into the space.

Speedy hire boat overtaking

We found that Kings Shilling was also moored here, and we had a chat as we walked into the village.

We collected Hazel’s prescription from the pharmacy. We smelled a lovely aroma from the tandoori next door, and from their menu we established that lunchtime opening was at 1200. It was now 1115. We went to kill time looking in shops where we didn’t want to buy anything. Back at 1155 and waited in their outside seating area. At 1200 we went in and discovered they are not open until this evening, despite what it said on the window.

Masooms, the tandoori in Goring

We went to the Catherine Wheel pub and found they were not serving until 1300. We wandered up to the top of village and found the excellent hardware store.

Exploring Goring.

We went down to the Miller of Mansfield, which was serving food, but it was too posh for us. We went back to the Catherine Wheel and had a very tasty paella. We discovered a footpath via Ferry Lane back to the moorings.

Catherine Wheel

In the afternoon we both had a snooze. Snoring in Goring.

Mooring in Goring.

Heavy rain later. Pouring in Goring

1 lock, 4 miles. Dep 0915, arr 1035

Fri 6^th August Goring to Wallingford

Just as we were leaving, a large Dutch barge called Songbird also left ahead of us to go to the lock. We were able to fit in behind, with a cruiser slotting in as well. One small boat came out of the lock. It was Steve, our next-door Weybridge neighbour from fifteen years ago, on board his boat Maggie Ellen. No time to talk – just enough time to snap a long shot as he disappeared.

Goring lock with Songbird

Maggie Ellen

Oxford barge at Streatley

At Cleeve Lock, Songbird filled the lock, so we had to wait for a second one. The guy on Songbird said that we could moor alongside in Wallingford if necessary. By the time the lock was ready, another narrowboat had appeared from behind, and the lock keeper suggested that the two narrowboats went in first, with the cruiser behind.

The narrow boat was Star Castle, with Paul and Judith. We were all going to Wallingford, so we passed on the favour and said that if there wasn’t much space, they could moor alongside us. We set off at a fair speed, and they managed to keep up with us.

We passed two expensive restaurants before we went under Moulsford Railway Bridge

Leatherne Bottel

Beetle and Wedge

Moulsford Railway Bridge

Near to Wallingford we encountered some rowers. The first was a rowing eight that was coming downstream towards us, and then decided to turn right in front of us, causing us to go into reverse to avoid a collision. We waited for them to set off again, as they would be faster than us, but instead they started having drinks, and taking off jumpers. Accordingly, we went to go past, and just as we drew level they started rowing, but not with all eight, just the first four, so they neither let us get away, nor did they go in front. There was another eight coming downstream, as well as a cruiser, so we were out in the middle blocking the way. They eventually got going, and we followed behind.

There were several rowing boats out, and another decided to turn just after we went past, right into the path of Star Castle who were following. Very stressful! The rowers seem to have lots of training about how to use their oars together, but precious little about awareness on the river.

Star Castle behind the rowers

Blocking the river

At Wallingford, the only mooring visible was against the high wall on the left, where it is difficult to get off the boat. Just as we were heading there, Hazel spotted a guy on a large hire boat opposite, and he was undoing his ropes. We quickly altered course and managed to take his place, where the quayside is much lower. Star Castle came alongside. We had left a gap for a smaller boat in front, but that was soon taken by another cruiser.

Moored in Wallingford

More boats arriving

We walked over the bridge into the town and discovered an excellent fruit and veg market stall, where we bought all sorts of fresh produce. We went round the charity shops and bought a glass pot for our cutlery waiting to be washed up.