Sun 14th July St
Ives
Last night we had a pleasant silhouette view of St Ives at
dusk.
We walked across the Bridge and were collected as arranged
and taken by Peter and Sharon to their church. It is a New Frontiers church and
they have their own building on a small industrial estate. The worship was
good, although a little tentative, as it was only the second time the worship
leader had led the band. They have four worship teams. The theme was the love
of God, and there was an excellent talk on the subject.
The worship team after the service
We went back to their place for a light lunch, which was
greatly appreciated. They have a large garden which was in need of attention
when they moved in. They are being enterprising - growing vegetables, restoring
a pond, and putting in some hours.
There were several sorts of butterfly, and James spotted
some Cinnabar caterpillars on Ragwort over the fence.
Peter drove us back via the Waits, where we saw that space
was available for our boat. We walked across the bridge once more and on to the
boat, and we reversed out of the mooring by the Dolphin, turned and cruised
gently into the Waits to moor up. A hire boat kindly moved along for us. Half
an hour later they departed anyway.
0 locks, 0 miles. Dep 1635, arr 1650.
Mon 15th July
St Ives to Middle Fen
We had to take our hood down as we can’t get off the boat
here without going up onto the seats in the stern and stepping over the boat
side onto the wall. We walked into town, where James left Hazel looking at
market stalls, while he went to catch a bus. Then he realised he had left his
binoculars on the boat, so he walked back to fetch them. Twenty minutes later
he was waiting for a bus again, to take him to Fen Drayton Lakes RSPB reserve.
Meanwhile, Hazel pottered around the stalls, and popped in
for a coffee at the Free Church, where they have put in a new floor to have
their meetings upstairs, while the original floor is used for community events.
She then went to Waitrose for a few things, and finally
went to Wetherspoons for a bottomless tea to await James’ return.
James was wandering round the nature reserve, where he
found some cinnabar caterpillars on some ragwort. In recent years we have only
managed one sighting each year, whereas they used to be very common. This year
we have seen them twice – once yesterday at Peter and Sharon’s and now here
today. The black and yellow caterpillar turns into a red and black moth.
Apart from that there were several butterflies, and lots of
birds, but nothing particularly unusual. Last time eight years ago, he saw a
fox, a stoat, and a bittern.
He caught the bus back and joined Hazel in Wetherspoons,
where we decided to have lunch before returning to the boat.
Back on the boat, we had to reverse out from the Waits, and
then head downstream under the old bridge for the final time.
Our mooring at the Waits
Wild visitors
Cygnets
Water art
Downstream under the bridge
We visited Jones’ boatyard where we were able to buy a gas
spanner to replace the one that has gone missing. We also topped up with water,
emptied two cassettes, and disposed of rubbish. Leaving there was tricky as we
had to reverse again. How we miss our bow thruster which stopped working
earlier this year!
It was nearly all cruisers
We left the marina, and turned right, downstream where we
found another narrowboat, Cormorant, just entering the lock. They pulled
over into the layby shaped area, and we followed in alongside. This meant that
we were first out of the lock. Another boat was waiting to come in, so they
operated the guillotine gate. We were soon way in front of Cormorant,
but we didn’t want to get to the next lock first, as there was only room for
one boat and we didn’t want to take the lock, when they had kindly let us in to
the last one.
Sharing St Ives Lock with Cormorant
In pole position in St Ives Lock
We saw Saul moored at the Ferryboat Inn, but we
couldn’t see John and Helen. We carried on past and before we reached the Pike
and Eel mooring where Hazel had trouble with mosquitos, we saw a nice looking
GOBA mooring so we decided to moor up, opposite a place marked as Middle Fen on
our map. We were the only boat there, and it was beautifully quiet. We couldn’t
hear any traffic or trains.
Saul at the Ferryboat Inn
1 lock, 4 miles. Dep 1420, arr 1610.
Tue 16th July
Middle Fen to Lazy Otter
The water was very clear, and there were lots of bright
blue damselflies near the stern where we were tied to a tree.
We saw John and Helen on Saul go past heading downstream,
as we are. Maybe we can catch up somewhere to get to know them a bit better.
We had hot sunshine today. Just as we were about to move
off a cruiser came from behind, so we held back and let them take the lock. We passed
the Pike and Eel, and caught them up at Brownshill Staunch.
Brownshill Staunch has a guillotine gate at each end. Each
one takes a while, as you are prevented from raising the gate more than a
couple of inches, and then you have to wait for a timer while the lock fills or
empties. There was not room for the two boats in the lock, so James operated
the buttons for them. By the time it was our turn, another cruiser was coming
from behind, and we couldn’t share with them either, so they operated the
buttons for us.
We cruised past amazing wildflower banks, with teasels,
ragwort, and loosestrife and passed Earith with its marina, and the entrance to
the Old Bedford River. Hermitage Lock is just beyond the junction with the New
Bedford River, where we came from nearly two weeks ago.
Westview Marina
New Bedford River and Hermitage Lock
The lock is manned, and there are traffic lights showing.
The light changed to green as we approached, so we went straight in. We
descended about two feet, and then we entered what is called the Old West
River. This has no locks right up to Denver, and this early part is narrow in
places, shallow and weedy. The first stretch is alongside a busy road.
Occasionally there is a pumping station to pump water into
the river from the surrounding dykes, as the river has high banks, and the surrounding
land is lower than the river. The engine laboured and at one point overheated
with a warning alarm sounding. James slackened the pace and the sound stopped.
Aldreth High Bridge marks the place where they think
Hereward the Wake crossed the river. Perhaps he was called that because he
didn’t slow down for moored boats!
We saw lots of different dragonflies and damselflies, as
well as buzzards, herons, and egrets.
We had hoped to go all the way to Pope’s Corner and beyond,
but we decided to stop just after the Lazy Otter, where there was a GOBA
mooring. We were tired. Hazel hung out some washing in the hot sun.
Moored near the Lazy Otter.
2 locks, 13 miles. Dep 1040, arr 1450.
Wed 17th July
Lazy Otter to Wicken Fen
Several boats were moving this morning, some going past
very quickly causing waves. James checked the prop before setting off, and
found an item of clothing on there, which explains some of yesterday’s engine labouring.
We were hoping to see a seal which we have heard lives
around here, but it kept out of sight. We passed the Stretham Old Engine,
erected in 1831 for draining the fens. It is only open on Sundays and Bank
Holidays.
At Pope’s Corner, the Old West River becomes the Great
Ouse, at the Junction with the River Cam. We turned right onto the Cam, quite a
wide river at this point, and proceeded upstream for three miles. Wildlife
sightings included an egret, lots of greylag geese, herons, dragonflies, Great
Crested Grebes, and a large terrapin, which disappeared when we slowed down to
take a photo.
A pumping station and a pill box
At Upware there is a marina, and a pub called the “Five
miles from anywhere – No Hurry”. There is also a junction where the Cam
continues to Cambridge, and Reach Lode goes off to the left.
A short distance into Reach Lode, there is a lock. This has
a guillotine gate at each end, and a fall of about an inch! With our bows on
the far gate, there was only a couple of feet to spare. The map states how
high, how deep, and how wide, but not how long the lock is. If our boat was
62ft or more, we would not have fitted. There is a water tap here which we will
use on our return.
After some moored boats, we turned left under a wooden
footbridge into Wicken Lode. What a contrast from the wide River Cam! This was
narrow and shallow, with reeds on both sides and water lilies.
Reach Lode and Wicken Lode Junction
Into Wicken Lode
We struggled along very slowly, often getting weed round
the prop, and having to a quick reverse thrust to shift it. The one-mile
section took an hour and ten minutes. Two thirds of the way along we met the
National Trust electric trip boat coming towards us. Fortunately, we were at
the junction with another small lode, and there was just space to pass.
Narrow channel
Meeting the trip boat
The Tower Hide
We arrived at the end of the navigable part where there is
room to turn in the junction with Monks Lode. There is also a GOBA mooring,
where we managed to moor in front of a small Sea Otter. So here we are in
Wicken Fen, the National Trust’s first Nature Reserve. We plan to go for a walk
later when it cools down.
Moored in Wicken Fen
1 lock, 7 miles. Dep 0935, arr 1245.
Next: a walk around Wicken Fen this
evening and possibly again tomorrow, then heading for Ely by the weekend.
